Friday, August 31, 2012

Mim Lauj: First Fight

Mim Lauj was born in Thailand, raised in France, and now lives in the US. As a guest blogger, she takes us into the colorful composite that is her world.

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“It doesn’t matter if you aren't there to take care of me. I can come home from school and eat the raspberries in the backyard!” 

I was eight or nine. I was enduring my father’s insufferable lecturing and these few words uttered with defiance and terror would be the biggest fight of my life. They are my first memory of ever standing up to my father and that moment would define me in unsuspected ways.

Every time the broom was swung across the tiled floor of our family kitchen one decibel too loud or any other chore was executed with less than grateful zeal, my father reminded my siblings and me that he had been trusted with the wellbeing of his village at the tender age of eighteen. He had led a platoon of Hmong soldiers during the Secret War across the heavily shelled mountain jungles of northern Laos before a single wrinkle dug into his deeply dark forehead. Now a retired, unrecognized, wounded veteran and refugee in France, he had relinquished his past glories to be a homemaker and caretaker while my mother would be the provider, picking tomatoes in local greenhouses. 

I don’t quite remember how the reprimand started, although there is little doubt it was well deserved. I do remember that my ears were burning up while I stared with anguish out the open French doors of our living room. The gauzy curtains were swaying in a slight breeze and outside, the rubbles of dirt and pebbles that constituted our rocky backyard was basking under the early summer sun. My mother always said I had the smallest, most stubborn ears she had ever birthed.

School was not quite off yet but my favorite month was well underway. In France, May succumbs to long extended weekends celebrating Labor Day, Catholic holidays and World War II commemorations. It also marks my birthday and the soon-to-be-announced summer break. The anticipation of three months of gamboling through the fields and along the rivers around Nouvoitou exacerbated a growing refusal to bow to the weight of my father’s legacy. Even then, I recognized it was a legacy too heavy and too foreign, thousands of miles away from me and the reality I lived in.
 
Now, if only my father wasn’t the one stocking the raspberry bushes with chicken manure and irrigating them with a self-engineered rainfall-capture system, my rebuttal would have had so much more clout. 

Year of the Armenian Book

2012 is the year of the Armenian book! And here's my contribution to the AW's special issue celebrating the 500th anniversary of Armenian printing.

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Anne Fuchs: Lost in Translation at the International Criminal Court.


Anne Fuchs is a guest blogger while serving as an independent observer of the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court in The Hague. She recently graduated from the University of Minnesota Law School.

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I was sent here to observe the International Criminal Court (ICC), but that will not be happening in the near future. The ICC took yet another recess until September 3rd. Thankfully, a colleague of mine that works for the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia (ICTY) has arranged for me to observe proceedings there. The ICTY was established to prosecute serious crimes from the wars of Yugoslavia.

The courts have many similarities. The courts also have many differences, besides the obvious distinct jurisdictions of the two judicial bodies.  

Before arriving in the Hague, I was curious as to how the language barriers would be addressed at the ICC. I quickly found that translations for proceedings are only in English and French. This seemed a bit strange as many of the conflicts investigated by the ICC are from the African continent with hundreds of tribal languages.  

At the ICTY, translators provide services for all proceedings in English, French and Bosnian-Croatian-Serbian. Perhaps it is the narrow scope of the ICTY that makes this possible. Although, it seems like a good thing to conduct proceedings in the native tongue of the accused and allow greater access to the proceedings to the public most affected – those native to the region of the conflict.

Sunday, August 26, 2012

At home in Johannesburg

It was about 14 years ago when I stayed in Johannesburg, South Africa -- or, Jo'burg, as the locals say -- for just one night. A lot seems to have happened 14 years ago, because I find myself typing it again and again. It must have been quite a year.

Anyway, I stayed with the family of a colleague. My colleague wasn't there at the time, so his brother entertained me for the evening. Before going out, I saw the typical home of a family of means in Jo'burg.

There were bars on the windows and security systems on several internal doorways. I'd never felt so secure and insecure at the same time. Next door was a Hindu temple. His parents were in a tuxedo and formal gown for an event. The juxtaposition of it all was incredible.

From that point on, it was -- I'm embarrassed to say but will anyway -- an evening of too much drinking. We met several of his friends in a bar and had a grand time. The following morning I boarded a plane for Botswana, keeping my "airsick" bag close at hand, just in case I got "airsick."

Yes, hospitality comes in all forms.

Prairie Talks: Take Two!

In just over a month, Prairie Talks will host its second event. The program features Roxana Saberi and is sponsored in part by the North Dakota Humanities Council.

Good stuff!

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

The Over-Communicator

My dad recently told me that the first telephone in Fillmore, where I grew up, was installed in 1913, but that at the time people maintained their own phones, and it fell out of use for a while. An area resident received their first phone bill in 1966 for $15 a year, excluding long distance charges.

You can be sure that when I was an adolescent, any hopes that my father may have pinned on maintaining that trend were shattered.

I've always been an over-communicator. "Hush," is the only thing I remember my grandfather saying to me, and I'm certain that it was deserved. That may sound somehow sadder than it should, simply because my family is not a family of over-communicators. No, they are not. That role was left to me and me alone.

If only I'd been a kid when they created Skype.

I am really beside myself with joy about all the communication modes I have at my disposal. As a teenager running up long-distance bills to classmates who lived 20 miles away, I could never have imagined that someday -- within the span of 24 hours -- I'd Skype with a friend in Mexico, text with friends in the city, post a guest blogger's post from the Netherlands, exchange emails with colleagues around the world, and end the day by Skyping with someone in Cambodia.

Were it not for all of these modes and devices, it is clear what would have happened: My transportation expenses would be outrageous.

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Anne Fuchs: Sitting in the Victim’s Chair at the ICC

Anne Fuchs is a guest blogger while serving as an independent observer of the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court in The Hague. She recently graduated from the University of Minnesota Law School.

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As I was observing the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court today, I became troubled by the lack of consideration for the testifying victims in the Courtroom’s design.

There were no victims testifying today, as we are still hearing the military expert provided by the defense, but I noticed that the only entrance to the Court, which all witnesses use, requires the victim to walk right by the defense table – including Mr. Bemba himself. On the walk to the witness chair, the victim stares into the public viewing gallery, oftentimes into the eyes of the people who supported the ill-treatment that the victim experienced.

Furthermore, the victim does not sit next to the judges or the prosecution, but by themselves in a lone chair that faces everyone else (see diagram below). The victim is not even seated near the Court-designated victims' advocate (aka Legal Representatives of Victims according to the diagram). These two individuals are the only people that victims know are on their side.



Diagram for Courtroom 1 of the ICC

Privacy issues of victims are well respected, and I know this is a temporary court building. Perhaps it is because of my experience as an advocate – but really?

This Court is designed to hold individuals accountable for atrocities committed against the victims.  It would only seem logical to consider the psychological effect of the layout of a courtroom on these very victims.

Monday, August 20, 2012

This Day

I love this day.

At 7:30 a.m., I had a Skype conversation with the Mexican yoga classmate of the American ex-girlfriend of the Greek-Cypriot guy I met on a plane 15 years ago. Later, I had a falafel lunch with one of the most dynamic, bad-ass women I know.

This evening, I got an email from a South African guy (whose car tires I ruined 14 years ago) noting that he saw I have a friend visiting The Hague, where he lives now, and would be happy to help. And, just now, I saw a recent video of a Frenchman who I met while staying with a Guatemalan family a few years ago.

The rest of the week? More of the same.


Sunday, August 19, 2012

Storytelling

A small church in Minneapolis asked me to deliver the message this morning; that is, a sermon of sorts. My approach is that of a storyteller. I'm not one to interpret the religious significance of a story, others can do that for themselves.

I told three stories about places I've been that have experienced war and torture. The stories are heavy, because war and torture are heavy. I can't pretend otherwise, and neither should anyone else. But I may have failed to anticipate how heavy it was -- all at once -- for those who aren't regularly exposed to the topics.

In presenting too much, too fast, I may have broken one of my own rules. That rule is to never make the topic of torture so foreign and inaccessible that the listener feels hopeless. This is an important rule, because it is never hopeless, though my definition of hope is perhaps different from what one comes to expect in a culture of happy ending movies.

In place of scripture this morning, a congregation member read Rumi's poem "Story Water." As I read the poem again and again, I think of how we all wade around in stories, finding and making meaning each day. Here I've written pieces of my talk from today after each stanza of the poem. They are in no particular order, because life is in no particular order. We do not live in a sterilized swimming pool. We swim in a living body of water, never knowing when we will encounter pain or hope or both.


STORY WATER
~ Rumi

A story is like water
that you heat for your bath.

It is hot inside and out; not the completely miserable kind, but the kind that reminds you that you're not at home in your temperature-controlled comfort zone. And, as if a further reminder were necessary, an iguana or something of that ilk saunters across the organizational chart posted high on the wall. The iguana has unilaterally inserted him or herself into the hierarchy of the organization.

It takes messages between the fire
and your skin. It lets them meet,
and it cleans you! 

The explosion was just thunder. A relief for more than one reason: This part of the earth hadn’t felt rain for five months. As it fell, the most solicitous of men brought me a cup of tea, as though he’d known what I was hoping. And I was at peace.

Very few can sit down
in the middle of the fire itself,
We need intermediaries.

Driving through the lush forest teeming with life, you’d never suspect that a war had raged in this land just nine years ago. These very rubber trees were slaughter tapped to fund it. Slash, more money for the warlords. Slash, more innocents maimed and killed. Slash, more decades until Liberia achieves some semblance of normalcy.

A fullness comes,
but usually it takes some bread
to bring it.


The president of the Association of Bosniak Concentration Camp Survivors in Brcko District spoke with an intensity I've seen only in people who have been in face-to-face battles around the world. Looking into his clear blue eyes as he spoke of his two years in concentration camps, never breaking eye contact, I felt as though I might learn something important about life if I didn't look away, that I might live differently from that moment on.

Water, stories, the body,
all things we do, are mediums
that hide and show what’s hidden.


But I had to look away. I had stopped breathing.

Study them,
and enjoy this being washed...with story,
with a secret we sometimes know,
and then not.

The man from Ivory Coast and I found no answers on that flight. I only know that he’ll be spending more time in his homeland once he retires, producing palm oil and renting out a few properties. And I’ll still be trying to make sense of what cannot be understood. When the plane landed, we shook hands emotionally in the aisle, like two people who wonder if they’ll ever meet again. Two people who, for a moment in time, understood nothing, together.

Saturday, August 18, 2012

Anne Fuchs: First Impressions at the ICC

Anne Fuchs is a guest blogger while serving as an independent observer of the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court in The Hague. She recently graduated from the University of Minnesota Law School.
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I’ve been here for just a couple of days now and am starting to formulate what I think of this place.  The city is no doubt beautiful, filled with old architecture, the dunes, and bordered by the North Sea.  And everything is well connected with a massive public transit system.

I had my first observation of the Bemba trial on Friday.  The security at the International Criminal Court is different than I had expected.  It has the typical scanner for possessions and persons, but at no point did I have to show any form of identification or sign a visitor’s log.  

Currently, the International Criminal Court is temporarily housed in the Arc complex.  This building is too cramped for the services and security required by the Court.  In 2015, the new building for the Court will be ready for use.

As a visitor, I do not have access to most of the building and resources (including wifi).  The interior of the building is modern and minimalist, with few signs labeling and directing guests.  My strategy has just been to push on doors and wander down hallways until something is locked and I can go no further.

Everything is fully conducted in both English and French, right down to the pamphlets on the Court.  Additionally, every person who works at the Court is fluent in English.  All of my silly questions can easily be answered.

Overall, my first impressions of this place are quite positive.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Slivers

Like a sliver under your skin that you can see, but not extract, I try to liberate something from within. When it needs to be said, if such a thing is possible, it comes easily, but not now. Instead, I simmer in the juices of what has been or is or will be.

If it is embedded for too long, there may be an infection, something that requires a cure. I aspire to prevention these days. No more tolerance of more than is necessary or sustainable. Pull it out entirely, lest it become unmanageable, intrusive, frightening.


Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Anne Fuchs: Preparations

Anne Fuchs is a guest blogger while serving as an independent observer of the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court in The Hague. She recently graduated from the University of Minnesota Law School.

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Less than 17 hours until my departure and the to-do list feels never ending. I have yet to pack, or finish refreshing my memory of the Rome Statute, which established the International Criminal Court. This fully encompassing document was the product of years of international negotiations.  The Statute describes the procedures, processes, powers and jurisdiction of the Court.  To date, 121 states are parties to it. The U.S. is one of the 32 states to have signed -- but not yet ratified -- the Statute.

All that I currently have packed.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Gastro Travel

One of the reasons I love to travel is -- you guessed it -- food. It never fails: at least once a day I find myself wondering, Why don't I do this at home? To be fair, I wonder the same thing when I'm at dinner parties just across town, too, but traveling outside of the country takes it to another level.

The past couple of months have been an anomaly. My schedule has been packed with more professional and personal travel than can possibly be considered sustainable. Once I realized that I had created this temporary monster, I made a decision to love it to the end. And love it I have. Every last bite.

While in Moldova I reclaimed my former dairy queen title amongst friends. Growing up on a farm, it was nothing to toss back five glasses of milk a day, and I generally consider corn-on-the-cob to be a delivery mechanism for butter and salt. The Moldovans saw my bet and raised it. The mamaliga (polenta) is served with sour cream and shredded cheese. It's as if it were designed for a farm girl lost in Eastern Europe. Aaah, home.

The people of Tbilisi, Georgia reminded me to get my daily five with the fruit platters available at any and all restaurants. The fruits were piled high on the table at which I and four new Armenian women friends sat. The waiter was skeptical that I'd be able to drink the large pot of tea I ordered, but I didn't disappoint. After our fruit and conversation, we took a walk around the quaint city, an unlikely group of an ethnic minority and an American in a former Soviet country.

Just another dairy, uh, I mean, day
Returning to my dairy theme -- an ironic one given my lactose intolerance -- dang, can the Armenians make yogurt. There's a dish at one of my favorite cafes, Art Bridge, that mixes raisins, cucumbers, and mint in matsoun (Armenian-style yogurt) to make a soup-like dish that is so satisfying, so healthy, and so cleansing. I can't come up with a single reason why I haven't tried to replicate it.

All of this sounds a little idealistic, which I am, but not just about foreign foods. There are many things I'm grateful to return to in Minnesota after travel, but I'd rather not tell you lest you think I'm high-maintenance (air conditioning), Pollyannaish (drivers that automatically stop for ambulances), judgmental (proper trash collection), or trite (clean air).

No, I won't tell you those things. Instead, I'll make a fruit platter and add sour cream to my shopping list.

Friday, August 10, 2012

At Home in Kampala

It's hard to know where my host family began and ended in Kampala, Uganda. There were parents and children, as one might expect. But some were their biological children, while they took responsibility for countless others, some of whom were relatives, others of whom were not. People came and went from the home. If they knew about me, I was just another person in their midst. If they didn't know why I was there, a look of confusion would flash across their faces.

Before they even took me home, we stopped at a store to buy food. They were concerned about what I would eat while with them - this was their first time hosting a foreigner. The food really wasn't a problem, but she took one look at my heels and dropped a pair of brown, beaded sandals in front of me. "This is Uganda, your feet will get tired." I still wear those sandals.

I stayed with the family for over three weeks. My room was near the bathroom with a window on the side of the home. At least once a day my host mother would say, "This is Uganda, anything can happen." And so my purse was always placed under a table, out of sight from the window, and the window was closed at night. When we drove, it was placed out of reach of the open window. "This is Uganda, anything can happen."

At around 10:00 p.m., right after my host family ate a heavy meal while I ate a banana, my host mother would spray my room with the most toxic of bug sprays. I appreciated the effort to ward off malaria-carrying mosquitoes, but begged her to spray every two days instead. The malaria net above my bed did its job, and the malaria prophylaxis coursing through my body presumably worked its magic, too. "This is Uganda, you can get malaria."

But what I remember really well about my host family stay in Kampala are the breakfasts. (With age, I'm realizing how gastro-centric my life is, and so it is in this case.) Without fail, my host sister brought me at least five different kinds of freshly cut juicy fruit -- mango, passion fruit, pineapple, melon, guava, and more. It was served with any number of dishes, my favorite of which was simply a hard boiled egg along with coconut rice. And it was all accompanied by a thermos of Ugandan black tea with a dash of tea masala as if to remind me of the Asian influence in the region.

The breakfast sustained me through days of heat and mad driving through the dusty, rutted roads of the city. Hospitality through food can really set a tone for the day. But in a place like Uganda, it's something of a luxury.


Part of my host family



Some of the extended family



Family picnic after a baptismal service





Dressed according to Buganda custom

Sunday, August 5, 2012

How to Kiss

Did the title get your attention? Well, if it created any particular expectations, I'd advise you to set them aside for a moment. This is a post on kissing of another kind. This is about social kissing. That is, hello and goodbye kissing.

In Armenia, you kiss one time on the left cheek. Unless you meet an Iranian-Armenian, in which case you kiss two times starting with the left cheek. But if you meet a Lebanese-Armenian, then be prepared for three kisses, again starting with the left cheek.

There are a lot of kisses to keep track of, really, and I'm not even touching on the greeting traditions of other cultures. Sometimes I forget the second or the third kiss and leave someone hanging, shifting my balance back into an upright position, only to be pulled in for the remaining kiss(es). Other times I give someone an extra kiss while asking the question, "Remind me, how many times do you kiss?"

It's a bit like dancing: follow the lead and let the music be your guide.

Anne Fuchs: International Criminal Court Observer

Anne Fuchs is a guest blogger while serving as an independent observer of the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court in The Hague. She recently graduated from the University of Minnesota Law School.


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I am no stranger to the amazing program that is the Upper Midwest Human Rights Fellowship (UMFRF).  I received my first UMFRF in 2010 to spend the summer working with the Helsinki Committee for Human Rights in Macedonia.  In 2011, I received my second UMFRF to clerk with the Southern Poverty Law Center in Montgomery, Alabama.  

However, unlike the previous ones, this fellowship fell into my lap.  A near and dear friend of mine was originally contemplating this fellowship, but due to other obligations was unable to commit.  She dropped my name in for consideration and here I am – in 11 days I fly to The Hague for a month.

I will be an independent observer for the Bemba trial at the International Criminal Court.  The purpose of an independent observer is to monitor, record and report on the trial process without influence from any stakeholders in the trial itself (i.e. the Court and anyone affiliated with Bemba or his defense).

I’ve learned to keep expectations – the good and the bad – to a minimum when I travel and simply let the experience happen and take in all that I can.  Still, I’m thrilled to soon experience the hospitality of the Netherlands and spend time in the biking capital of the world.

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Khndzoresk, Armenia

I was not prepared for all the beauty I saw today.

Khndzoresk Bridge from above
160-meter long swinging bridge

Less terrifying than expected


One of the churches in the area

More beauty around every corner










Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Perspective

Something I wrote while in the mountains of Dilijan, Armenia last weekend.